MONDAY, NOVEMBER 17, 2008

La Commedia è Finita!

Today we finished packing and went to CDG airport for the flight home. Air France pilots were on strike so some of their passengers were shifted to our flight which made the flight fairly full. We arrived on time and got home about 5:00 pm. Almost ready to leave for Orlando the next morning with a flight at 8:15 am.

We have enjoyed doing this blog for you and for us.

We will be starting another in the next week or so. It is called

http://www.parisphotodujour.blogspot.com/

Here, we will feature several times a week some interesting photos that we took in Paris, most of which will not have been shown here. Come and visit the site and put it in your Favorites folder.

SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 16. 2008

This is the last day of out three month adventure.

We went to the Saint Germain area where we walked around for a while to say goodbye to one of our favorite neighborhoods. We went to the Deux Magots for our last hot chocolate of the stay. It was thick and very chocolaty. We sat for about an hour and did our usual people-watching. We took the bus back and did some preliminary packing before going out to dinner. We walked about ten blocks to get to a restaurant in the eleventh that we had been to several years ago. Its name is Chardenoux. It is a classic bistrot with many of the usual types of classic cuisine. We both had someof our favorites, Coquille St Jacques (scallops) for Alexandria and Confit de Canard for Erwin. After the meal we walked back to the apartment on our last stroll.

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 15, 2009

We slept late this morning since we both had some difficulty in falling asleep the night before. Maybe it was coffee that day. Who knows? We did our last load of laundry today, having enough clean clothes to take us through most of our week in Florida. Yes, we are arriving home on Monday afternoon and leaving early Tuesday for a week in Florida. We caught up on some work and personal things in the afternoon. We had our last home meal tonight since we will eat out on Sunday. Soup, salad, cheese, and dessert. The Cavaillon melons are still very good although I am not sure that they are still coming from that region of France. After dinner, we went for a longish walk ending up at the Café Européen for our most relaxing and pleasant time of the day. But no coffee tonight. Off to bed at a reasonably early time.

FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 14, 2008

We went up to the place de la Bastille this afternoon to get some chocolates for gifts. We took a little bit different route, this time going up the rue du Faubourg St. Antoine. On the way we dropped about a dozen used batteries at the Monoprix which has a collection for used batteries. The street is a rather glitzy place with a lot of furniture stores containing furniture that I and probably you would never buy for our homes. Just behind the place de la Bastille is the chocolate shop, Le Nôtre. We purchased several smallish boxes for friends and went back to the place for our usual, not at the Café Français, but at another smaller one just across the street. After about an hour of our usual, we went back home arriving just in time to meet Linda who had come to take care of the plants on the balcony. We had invited her out to join us for an apéritif at the lounge of the buffet at the Gare de Lyon called Le Train Bleu. The station was built for the Paris Exhibition of 1900 and the buffet with its large ornate rooms, many sculptures and paintings was opened in 1901. It is certainly the Belle Epoque period. We had drinks in one of the rooms, most seats in the many smaller rooms were taken.

We were there for almost two hours chatting with Linda and enjoying our drinks. We left the lounge and passed through the main dining room as you can see us there in the last photo. We went out to the top of the stairs that lead up from the main part of the station and got a wonderful view of the station.

We went back home after saying goodbye to Linda and promising to stay in touch. We had dinner in tonight.

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 13, 2008

Today we tried to finish up our shopping but we ran into a hitch. When we got to our local bus stop, we noticed a rather large number of people waiting. On the arrivals announcement, we saw that the three buses that stop there were all not running due to a "manifestation".

After waiting a while, most of the people, us included, walked up to the place de la Bastille. We were told by someone there that the police had just removed some barriers there and as we went through the "place", we saw lots of garbage on the street and people milling around. Traffic was just starting to move so we went to the bus stop on the other side of the "place". We finally got our 29 bus and headed toward the place de la Madeleine. At the place des Victoires about 12 or so blocks from our destination, the driver told us this was the last stop since there was a "manifestation" at the Opera which was on the bus route. Off we got. This is one of the "pleasures" of life on Paris. Since we have been here, there have been almost a dozen times when some buses have been either stopped or detoured due to.... you guessed it.

We walked down the rue St. Honoré, a very nice shopping street. We have bought chocolate at one of the cities best chocolate shops, Hévin, but that was not our destination today.







We arrived at la place de la Madelaine and went to the Maille mustard store. They have many different flavors of mustard. You can buy an empty crock (three different sizes) and have it filled with one of three flavors. Better yet, you can bring your empty crock back and they will refill it for nothing.






Expensive refill from New Jersey, however. We bought several as gifts and returned home via the #14 métro. This is the new driverless métro that only opened less than ten years ago.

Tonight we went to dinner to our favorite restaurant, Chez René, on the boulevard St. Germain. As usual, we dined very well with Alexandria's favorite scallops and Erwin's favorite blanquette de veau. We always get a very nice welcome here and the food is perfect also.

WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 12, 2008

Erwin went to the market for what is probably our last full marketing spree. We made need a thing or two later.

In the afternoon, we went to look at another rental apartment, this one being about six or eight blocks north of the Bastille on rue St. Sébastien. It was on the first floor (American first floor) up a set of rather dingy stairs. We were surprised when we entered to find a lovely newly renovated one bedroom apartment. There was a b rand new kitchen designed by the owner because he likes to cook, a very practical living area, and separate (?) bedroom that can be closed off by sliding panels. See the pictures below.

A bit smaller than the one we are in now, but the space is much better utilized. We would definitely consider this for a rental in the future. We are always on the lookout for apartments in different parts of the city. This one is only a block or two away from the Marais. The kitchen and eating area are especially nice, much better than here.

After the apartment-viewing, we went back to the place de la Bastille for a libation and an hour or so of people-watching. Back to the apartment for dinner and then out again for more café-sitting, this time at our favorite, the Café Européen opposite the gare de Lyon. Life is tough!

TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 11, 2008

Today, the weather seemed pretty nice so we took the bus to the stop on the Île St. Louis. We crossed the bridge to the quai de la Tournelle and walked up the river stopping and looking at all the bookstalls along the river. As we approached Notre Dame, we went to a café to warm up a little and to take a break. We had our usual.

We went across the river to go into Notre Dame. As we approached we saw a crowd in front of the cathedral along with a number of British military people.

It seems that we had just missed a ceremony sponsored by the British Embassy and several veterans' groups that celebrated the commemoration of Armistice Day 1918. There seemed to be representatives of many different branches of service including a rep from the Australian army, a mountain soldier, etc.

We went into the cathedral to be amazed for the umpteenth time at the interior. The stained glass windows,

and the statues in front over the doors (Notice the headless saint)

There is also an interesting plaque in the cathedral that commemorates the origin of the cathedral. It dates back to 1163.

We never cease to be impressed with Notre Dame.

In the evening we went out to dinner in a restaurant in the Marais that is reputed to have the best couscous in the city. It is called Chez Omar on the rue de Bretagne. We both had the couscous, Alexandria had the vegetable version and Erwin had the brochette of lamb version. Both were very good and we had quite a bit that we couldn't finish. We have been there several times and we have always enjoyed our meals there. It's not much on decor, with simple wooden chairs and tables and a rather rustic interior. The waiters are also rustic. We finished off with some typical North African pastries filled with honey and nuts. Including wine, the tab came to less than 50 euros, very good for Paris.

MONDAY, NOVEMBER 10, 2008

Today was shopping day. In the afternoon we went to the boulevard Haussman where many of the large department stores are located. We decided to go to Le Printemps to get some gifts. Alexandria wanted some scarves for her five grandchildren and we found a large selection. She settled on four of them and Erwin got one for himself also. We then went up to the children's department, two whole floors. There we got another scarf for Luke, grandson # 5. Erwin remembered about the detaxe so we had that processed. We will get 12% back. After we went to one of the other buildings (The store has three separate buildings, one next to the other). There we went to the brasserie of Le Prentemps for a drink. The brasserie is in a magnificent room with a beautiful domed roof that goes back to before the World War II.

When we had finished, we left the store. It was already getting dark and all the Christmas light were already on display.

We took the bus home and had a light supper in.

SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 9, 2008

Big day today. Happy Birthday to you, Happy Birthday to you, Happy Birthday dear Alexandria, Happy Birthday to you!!!!!!

Today we up to the Marais where we did a lot of walking and window shopping. The Marais is a very lively place on a Sunday afternoon, especially the rue des Francs Bourgeois where we started our walk. Lots of shops and lots of people. On the place des Vosges, we listened to a string orchestra play an impromptu concert under the arches.

We went over to the rues des Rosiers, where there lots of Jewish food shops, book stores, etc. Heard a lot of Hebrew being spoken there. We stopped for a libation at a cafe at the bottom of the rue du Bourg Tibourg. We tried Mariages Frères but, being a Sunday afternoon, it was crowded and there was a line. We took the bus back home.

In the evening we celebrated with dinner at an old classic restaurant called Le Dôme. It is located on the boulevard du Montparnasse near the railroad station Montparnasse in the 14th.

The restaurant specializes in seafood and in shellfish. As you can see, it is beautifully decorated in wood panelling. There are plaques throughout commemorating the many famous people who dined there in the past. Such people as Dufy, Giacometti, and many famous authors and political figures.

Our apéritif was a Kir Royal which is cassis and champagne. Alexandria started with sardines and red peppers and Erwin had a dozen oysters from Brittany. We then shared the "true" bouillabaise marseillaise, a fish soup with large pieces of five different kinds of fish and boiled potatoes served in a large bowl with broth. We each had a large portion and barely dented the original serving. Erwin had a second large plateful, but Alexandria passed. It is eaten with large croutons topped with a rouille, a mayonnaise-based spread enhanced with garlic and hot spices. For dessert, we shared a nougat ice cream. It was one of the best meals we had in France this time. Excellent food, excellent service, excellent ambiance, and, of course, excellent company. Happy Birthday again.

SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 8, 2008

Today, we went to the Roland Garros Tennis Complex where we took the guided tour and then spent some time in the Tenniseum. We toured the grounds and started with fountain in the place des Mousquetaires where there are statues of some of the original players including René LaCoste, well known also for Izod shirts with the alligator.

We toured two of the three stadia, the largest being the Court Philippe Chatrier.

We were shown around the playing area and then inside to the press area and the players' area. While there we saw the press room, Alexandria in the winners' interview room (no, she didn't play), and the players' lounge. Notice these areas in the following pictures.

Alexandria has been to the US Open at Flushing Meadow for 4 or 5 years and says that it is much larger than Roland Garros. There are 20 courts at Roland Garros of which 16 are used for marches and 4 for practice. The place is only in use for the time of the French Open and is not used for the rest of the year. However, there are the guided tours all year long as well as the Tenniseum. After the tour we spend about an hour in the Tenniseum looking at the displays and mementos, and watched replays of some of the important matches over the past 20 some odd years. One we saw was the year Ivan Lendl beat the young John McEnroe. McEnroe was not very happy as you could see from his face at the presentation ceremony. Incidentally, even a player who loses his first match takes home about $20,000.

We had gone to the Complex on the metro but we went home on two buses. Much longer but a much more pleasant trip. We had dinner in this evening.

FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 7, 2008

This afternoon, we went to meet two of the other prospective owners of the fractional-share apartment. We met at a café on the place de la Sorbonne. We chatted over coffee for almost and hour and a half about very many aspects of the ownership of the apartment. The other couple brought up some interesting points that we hadn't thought of, and we did the same for them. All in all, we had an interesting and informative discussion. When we parted, we agreed that we would remain in contact since it would be in our mutual interests.

We stayed on at the cafe and had out usual apératif before heading off for dinner. We went to a restaurant we had never been to before. It was La Rôtisserie du Beaujolais located on one of the "quais" of the Seine, quai de la Tournelle, across from the Ile St. Louis. It was a very lovely place in the old French bistrot style and the food was excellent. We both had sautéed pleurotes which are a variety of wild mushrooms. Alexandria had monkfish for her main course and I had the confit de canard. We shared a pear tart. We both agreed that we would come here again. It addition to the food and the ambiance, the kitchen opened on to the dining room so we were able to watch the chef and his crew working. It was fascinating to watch this performance.

We caught the bus back home after a wonderful evening.

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 6, 2008

We had an appointment with the developer of the apartment we have been looking at near the Luxemburg Gardens. We met him at the apartment which gave us a second chance to see it again. Please note the pictures below.

We have come to a tentative agreement for basically the last two weeks in September and the first two in October. All will depend upon our lawyer's review of the contract when we get back home. We are excited about this new aspect of our lives.

The neighborhood is an interesting one. We are across the street from the library of the Sorbonne, two blocks from the Luxemburg Gardens, and two blocks in the other direction from the Pantheon. Just down the street is the famous boulevard St. Michel (called BoulMich by the Parisians). There are lots of interesting restaurants and cafes nearby, and in walking distance of the rue Mouffetard, well-known amongst francophiles.

In front of the Pantheon, we discovered a group of modern art statues in a display by the Italian sculptor Rabarama, being sponsored by the town hall of the 5th arrondisement. We found them very interesting, to say the least. What do you think?










We walked down the rue Mouffetard doing a lot of window shopping and making an occasional purchase. At the bottom, we walked out to the boulevard du Port-Royal. We got the bus back to our neighborhood. Dinner was in again. A bit of pasta, a salad, some cheese, and a few fresh figs from the market.

WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 5, 2008

Very little to report. Erwin went for a haircut and Alexandria stayed in for the day. Linda, our "gardener", came at 5 pm to take care of the flowers on the balcony. We ate in and later watched the film "That's Entertainment". That's it!

TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 4, 2008

More shopping at the market. Then we went to the Marais where we had a light lunch in the Marché des Enfants Rouges. We stopped at the Moroccan stand in the market and shared a vegetable couscous. It was very good and cost only 5 euros.

After strolling around the neighborhood, we then went to our 3rd, and last, get-together of ParlerParis. It is interesting to meet all kinds of people who love Paris, mostly Americans, some of whom live here all year long, or some who are here only for a few months at a time. Chatted with a man who was born and raised in South Orange, a few miles from where we live.

We took the bus back and relaxed for a while before going out to dinner.

For dinner we went to a local bistrot where we have never dined before. It is called Le Quincy.

It was quite an experience. We were the first ones to arrive. The owner greeted us very warmly and made some jokes about his expectancy of few patrons due to the American elections.

He said business would be booming for the take-out pizza places since the French would be home watching the American election results. The French preferred, in polls taken several days ago, Sen Obama by a wide margin. The French tend to be more liberal in their political beliefs and carried that over to our election.

The restaurant itself was very quaint and warm.

The food also was very good, traditional in style. Alexandria and Erwin shared a leak tart to start. She then had scallops and Erwin had the cassoulet. We finished up with an excellent rice pudding with macerated fruits. All in all, a fine experience.

MONDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2008

Today was another laundry day. This time sheets and pillow cases. Normally at home, one load to wash and one load to dry. Here, it is two loads to wash and then off to the laundromat for drying. In spite of this, we went off to the Boulevard Raspail to the Banque de France to exchange 150 francs that Erwin had had in his wallet for years. What a stogey place. Double door security to get in, go to the Accueil (welcome desk), fill out a form that asks everything but the name of your dog, get a number and wait for the number to be called. Then go to the window, give the form, the cash, AND the little paper with your number. You have to sign two papers and then you get your 22 euros along with a full page receipt.

We got back on the bus and went to the boulevard de la Tour Maubourg to find out what had happened to one of our favorites, Le Maupertu. We got there and found out the name had changed and we were told that the former owner, Sophie Deguest was no longer there and that it had changed hands. What a shame! Sophie had very kind and accommodating to us over the years and we will miss her.

We then went to the École Militaire intersection where we had the obligatory hot chocolate and cappuccino. It was a lovely sunny afternoon and we enjoyed the sun and the view. We went back to the apartment and had a light supper. Erwin had picked up some cheese and/or vegetable tarts at the boulangerie which we had with a salad, cheese and dessert.

Another uneventful, but wonderful day in Paris.

SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 2008

Here to get in it is the first Sunday of the month and free museum entrances again. We went off to the D'Orsay Museum and got there about 1:30 and it took us about 25 minutes waiting on line to get in. When we left at 4:00, the lines were even longer.

We went to see the special exhibition entitled "Le Mystère et l'Éclat, pastels du Musée d'Orsay". You would be surprised at the number of impressionists who worked with pastels as well as oils.

Below are a few. Do you recognize which one is a Degas?

We separated and Alexandria went to see the exhibition of masks. Erwin went to see some photo essays by a contemporary photographic artist named Valérie Belin. For the moment, there are no photos of the masks, but maybe?

Erwin also looked at some of the sculptures in the main hall.